Johann Donabaum Riesling Setzberg Smaragd 2023, 0,75 L

There are vineyards in the Wachau that have a special ring to them, and Setzberg is certainly one of them. It is one of those wines that is not produced in large quantities every year and almost automatically finds its way onto the country’s best wine lists. The 2023 vintage once again impressively shows why this Riesling enjoys such a legendary reputation.

From the very first whiff, everything you would expect from a great Wachau Smaragd is present. Juicy apricot and peach notes take centre stage, accompanied by subtle exotic hints in the background. Nothing is loud or overripe. Everything feels clear, precise and sharply focused. On the palate, the wine is taut, remarkably juicy and perfectly balanced. The acidity provides drive and freshness, while the fruit remains elegant and light on its feet.

Despite its power, this Riesling never feels heavy. On the contrary, it has an animating style that immediately invites the next sip. The finish is long and fresh, with a fine, lemony touch that is truly enjoyable.

Setzberg represents sophisticated Riesling craftsmanship from the Wachau, characterised by depth, tension, and impressive ageing potential. While already a pleasure to drink today, this Smaragd will continue to impress for many years to come.